Car-free adventures aroundBarmouthGwynedd
Seaside Barmouth, with its Victorian cottages and steep, winding alleys, its classic waterfront promenade and spectacular viaduct, is a perfect base for adventures by train, ferry, bike or foot. And great for staycations - scroll to the end and find more tips on buses, trains and places to stay. There are glorious walks like the Mawddach Trail to explore, castles and wildlife reserves dotted along the coast, and fabulous visitor attractions like The Ffestiniog Railway.
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1. Arrive by train on the Cambrian Lines
The epic 120-mile ride from Shrewsbury to the Welsh coast is one of the great scenic railway journeys of Britain, crossing the border between England and Wales and passing some spectacular scenery. Trains run every two hours from Birmingham and Shrewsbury, through hills and mountains, to the Cambrian Coast. The line divides at Dovey Junction station, with the shorter mainline heading south to historic Aberystwyth, and the coastal line running north along the sea to Barmouth.
- From the medieval market town of Shrewsbury, your journey takes you through the rolling sheep-speckled hills of mid Wales and on to the Cambrian Coast. Next stop is Welshpool, home to a steam railway and a thirteenth-century castle with lovely gardens.
- Welsh leader Owain Glyndŵr established the first true Welsh parliament at Machynlleth in 1404. Today “Mach” is a friendly market town with a bohemian feel, where you can find everything from male voice choirs to meditation. About three miles north of town you can visit the Centre for Alternative Technology and see solar or hydro generators, wind turbines, filtering reed beds and other sustainable systems, all set in pleasant organic gardens.
- As the train heads on towards Barmouth, look out for wildlife. The line runs beside the Dyfi Estuary, its salt marshes, sandbanks and mudflats teeming with birds.
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2. Coastal path and coastal railway
Long sandy beaches on the Snowdonian coast – what could be more spectacular? The Cambrian Coast railway runs alongside the Wales Coast Path, passing dunes and marshes, woods and waterfalls. This makes it easy to sample short sections of the route, from a 2-mile stroll to a hilly 8-mile hike.
- Huge, grey-sandstone Harlech castle, rising from its rock above the sea, is linked to legends of the Welsh princess Branwen and inspired the rousing song “Men of Harlech”.
- From Minffordd station, where the line turns west, it’s a mile’s walk to the to the fantasy Italianate village of Portmeirion, colourful location of cult 1960s TV series, The Prisoner.
- Next stop is Porthmadog, home to the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways – two spectacular narrow gauge steam railways, running through the mountains of Snowdonia to the slate capital of Blaenau Ffestiniog and the famous castle town of Caernarfon.
- The train goes on past Criccieth Castle, perched on a hill above the beach, to reach the end of the line at Pwllheli, on the Llyn Peninsular, with staggering views over Cardigan Bay.
- Half of the 26 stations on this line are request stops: to catch a train at these smaller stations, you’ll need to stick out your arm in time for the driver to brake and, if you want to get off at one, make sure you ask the guard well ahead.
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3. Get the Ferry to Fairbourne
Besides the spectacular viaduct over the Mawddach estuary, the Barmouth ferry runs daily and connects with the Fairbourne steam railway.
- You can cross from Barmouth’s harbour quayside to Barmouth Ferry Station at the mouth of the beautiful Mawddach Estuary on a small motorboat ferry.
- Ferries have been crossing the Mawddach estuary to Barmouth since Roman times and in the middle ages local monks used to operate them. Famous ferry passengers have included William Wordsworth and Charles Darwin.
- From Barmouth ferry to Fairbourne village, the little Fairbourne Railway has splendid views, with Cader Idris mountain on one side and the sea on the other.
- Fairbourne Station hosts a large model railway a museum and a licensed, café, usually open when trains are running, which serves cakes, sandwiches and ice creams as well as tea, coffee, wine, cider and the award-winning, locally brewed Purple Moose beers. The Harbour View Café, right by the beach at Barmouth Ferry Station, serves a similar range of drinks and snacks, and overlooks Barmouth Bridge and the estuary.
- Fairbourne is also famous for its two-mile-long golden sandy beach backed by a pebbly bank with great views of the woods and mountains. Windsurfing and sailing are popular on the windy westward side and along the top end, there are “dragons’ teeth”, concrete anti-tank blocks left over from World War Two, designed to stop the enemy landing.
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4. Hike or bike the Mawddach Trail
This ten-mile walk and cycle route along the beautiful Mawddach estuary follows a disused railway. Scroll down for details of bike hire. You can follow it all the way along the estuary, to the historic market town of Dolgellau, and, if you’re walking, come back on bus T3. Or just as far as the picturesque George III pub at Penmaenpool.
- For a shorter walk, try Barmouth’s town heritage trail. Discover Victorian cottages and steep, winding alleys in Old Barmouth and 15th-century Ty Gwyn (“white house”), which is the town’s oldest building.
- The classic Panorama Walk above Barmouth provides dramatic views and routes of differing lengths, from one mile to six. On the way you pass the site of the Victorian pleasure gardens, relics of 19th-century manganese mining and a First World War memorial on Craig y gigfran (“raven rock”).
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Trains, bikes, buses and places to stay
Here’s a bit more practical info if you’re planning a staycation in Barmouth.
- An Explore Cambrian Coast day rail rover ticket is a great option for getting around the area and enjoying the scenery (you’ll still want to plan ahead as the trains are not very frequent).
- The great value North Wales Rover allows unlimited trips in chosen areas on all buses and trains.
- You can hire bikes from Birmingham Garage in Barmouth (near the harbour, 01341 280644). And there are more options on the Mawddach Estuary website.
- There are plenty of places to stay in Barmouth, including cottages and airbnb type options. There are also B&B rooms in The Royal, a lively pub near the station. Half way along the Mawddach Trail, with an occasional bus G21 stopping outside, the Graig Wen offers glamping, camping, cottages and B&B.
Here are some more ideas of green travel in Snowdonia from our friends at Green Traveller.
