Car-free inThetfordNorfolk
East Anglia’s ancient capital has many layers of history, from the iron age castle mound to the filming of Dad’s Army. Thetford’s heaths and forests, among sandy, pine-fringed Brecks, are also worth exploring. Ride the train along the Little Ouse Valley or take a minibus to wild Knettishall Heath, where three long distance paths meet. Thetford makes an excellent base for a staycation exploring the area - we've added some tips on places to stay at the end.
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1. Arrive by Train
Trains arrive regularly on the Breckland Line from Cambridge and leave a few times per day for Norwich. Thetford’s also on the long-distance line from Norwich, heading for Nottingham, Sheffield and Manchester on the way to Liverpool.
- Picturesque Ely is just twenty-five minutes away by train, on the railway that connects Thetford with Cambridge and London.
- Sit on the left when heading from Cambridge towards Thetford for the best views of Ely Cathedral above the marina.
- And – if there’s room – switch to the right hand side for the best views of the Little Ouse Valley. The countryside around Brandon is especially beautiful.
- Look out for little Victorian St Helen’s church, with its octagonal tower, very close to the railway – one of England’s smallest churches.
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2. Dad’s Army
The classic 1970s BBC series, Dad’s Army, was filmed in and around Thetford each summer. Thetford guildhall became Walmington-on-Sea Town Hall (a German pilot is left dangling from the clock in one episode).
• There is a statue of Captain Mainwaring by the town bridge in front of the Light Cinema.
• This is a ten minute walk from the railway station; simply head down station road, turn left and right onto Whitehart Street, past the Ancient House Museum.
• The Bell Inn featured in various episodes along with several other town locations.
• There is even a Dad’s Army Museum, which celebrates the town’s connections with the well-loved TV show, in the Old Fire Station on Cage Lane.
• The Marigold tearooms are generally open at the same time as the museum and serve cakes baked to wartime recipes.
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3. Thetford Priory and more
Thetford’s landmarks date from thirteen different historical eras, from Vikings to World War II and beyond. Among the famous former Thetfordians are Maharaja Duleep Singh and Thomas Paine, who wrote The Rights of Man. Duleep Singh’s son, Prince Frederick founded Thetford’s Ancient House Museum, which explores the town’s history.
- From Captain Mainwaring (see 2 above), turn left beside the water and cross the footbridge onto Butten Island to find the equestrian statue of Duleep Singh, last Sikh ruler of the kingdom of the Punjab and former owner of the Koh-i-Noor diamond.
- The town is also the birthplace of Thomas Paine and there is a statue of him on King Street, holding his book Rights of Man (1791).
- How to get to Thetford Priory: Head back along the river, with the water on your left to find Thetford Priory. Cross under busy London Road, turn immediately left, with the fence on your left, and follow the road round to find the ruins of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
- Cross back over the river and turn left to find the main priory – England’s only surviving remains of their kind. One of the biggest monasteries in East Anglia, it was founded in the early 12th century.
- Don’t miss the 14th century gatehouse and the prior’s lodging at the far end, with some weather-beaten remains of ancient carvings.
- If this has whetted your appetite for local history, note that the Ancient House Museum offers a “Twilight Ticket”, from an hour before closing.
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4. Walk to Thetford Warren Lodge
There’s one other intriguing English Heritage site in the neighbourhood. It’s only visible from the outside, but its location is wonderfully atmospheric. Thetford Warren Lodge was built around 1400 by the Prior of Thetford; this mini castle defended medieval hunting parties from armed poachers. Local “warreners” later lived here and managed the nearby rabbit warrens until about a hundred years ago. When Shakespeare’s Benedick says his lovelorn friend Claudio is “melancholy as a lodge in a warren”, he could be thinking of somewhere like this.
- How to get to Thetford Warren Lodge: Regular bus 86 stops about a mile away on the way from Thetford to Brandon, but for those who’d like to see more of the area on foot, there is a great way to walk there. It’s about three miles.
- Follow the riverside path, past Thetford Priory and keep going, out of town, passing underneath the A11.
- Keep going until you reach the little gauge house at Abbey Heath weir and cross the river on a footbridge.
- Turn back along the far side of the Little Ouse and follow the arrow right. At the junction, turn left and follow this woodland track. Take the first turn left and keep going to the road, where you can see Thetford Warren Lodge, on the far side, ahead of you.
- You are now on the edge of Thetford Forest, Britain’s largest lowland pine forest. Trails marked with pink and yellow-backed arrows lead through the woods to High Lodge activity centre, another three miles away. (If you’re heading straight for High Lodge, it’s closer to Brandon).
- You can wander through the beech, pine and rhododendron, looking out for deer, as well as butterflies and birds: from goshawks overhead to tiny wrens in the undergrowth.
- If you don’t want to walk all the way back, book a taxi to the railway station and Perry’s is recommended.
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5. Minibus to Knettishall Heath
Wild Knettishall Heath marks one end of the ancient Icknield Way, from Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire, and one end of its sister path, the Peddar’s Way, which runs to the North Norfolk Coast Path through the sandy, pine-fringed countryside. Exmoor ponies graze on Knettishall Heath, keeping the grass short so that rare species can continue to thrive. Although it’s a relatively remote destination, Suffolk County Council currently run a helpful service to enable people travel more easily around the county.
- How to get to Knettishall Heath: The Connecting Communities minibus service can provide an excellent shuttle to Knettishall Heath from Thetford railway station, Mon-Sat, but you do need to book in advance on 01638 664304.
- Three trails, signed in yellow, red and green lead across the ancient expanses of the heath. Look out for Bronze Age burial mound just off the green trail.
- You can also follow the riverside Angles Way nearby past Riddlesworth Hall, the school where Lady Di was once a student.
- Near the river, blue and black arrows lead to a footbridge over the Little Ouse River onto the Peddar’s Way. A further three miles along the way, you reach Thorpe Forest resort, with the Forest Retreat shop and café away to your right. It serves snacks all day and is open to the public.
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Taxis, bikes and places to stay
Here’s a little bit more practical info if you’re planning a staycation in Thetford.
- If you need a taxi to help you get around, try Perry’s on 07985 386059 or Premier Taxis on 07872 922276.
- For bike repair or servicing, try Halfords.
- There are lots of places to stay in Thetford, including the riverside Travelodge. It’s right by the statue of Captain Mainwaring and very close to the High Street, a ten minute stroll from the station.
- Alternatively, the historic Bell Inn across the river.
- Hotels in Thetford might make a more affordable and less crowded option for people wanting to explore places like Ely or Cambridge, a short train ride away.
