Car-free adventures aroundNewquayCornwall
Twelve sandy beaches, world-class walking, several scenic bus rides and a tropical zoo all make Newquay a great car-free destination. You can reach Newquay by train from Par, on the main Great Western Railway from London and then on GWR's scenic branch line (see 3 below) or by bus along the coast from Padstow (see 4 below). Summer is really busy in this popular town, but head off the beaten track and you’ll still find quieter coves and cliff paths to explore… Come in peaceful springtime to see dolphins in the harbour or lambs on the farm and in mellow autumn to explore the Luxulyan Valley's beech woods in all their golden glory. At any time of year, Newquay makes a great base for a staycation. Scroll to the end for tips on buses, bikes and places to stay.
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1. Holywell beach (and Poldark Country)
Newquay’s dozen beaches are surprisingly different, from sunbathing in sheltered Porth on the north side of town to surfing on famous Fistral with its towering breakers. Family-friendly Towan beach, in the heart of Newquay not far from the railway station, features a holiday home on a tall stack of rock, accessed only by a private suspension bridge. The South West coast path, which links all the beaches, runs through the town along a disused railway and then round the coast. Along the way, you’ll cross a ferry and reach Holywell Bay, which fans of Poldark will recognise a regular backdrop for the the BBC’s popular series.
- For a great day out to this unusual beach, a half hour ride on bus 85 (all-year) or open-topped Sunseeker S1 (summer only) takes you to Holywell Bay with its wild dunes and secret low tide caverns. Arriving car-free, on foot or by bus, means (among other things) you avoid the queue for the National Trust car park that builds up on sunny days.
- Holywell Bay is one of many beautiful Cornish locations that featured in Poldark. Visit Britain have compiled a list of Poldark locations and Lucy Daniel Guide runs tours you can visit easily by public transport.
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2. Newquay Zoo
Ring-tailed lemurs and free-flying jungle songbirds, lions, penguins, zebras, lizards and lynxes… you can see them all at Newquay Zoo, a leafy garden full of rare species and surprising corners. It’s about a mile’s walk from the centre of town, following the brown and white signs. You can also hop on the bus or summer land train.
- Bus routes U1, U1A, 25, 85 and 88 together provide frequent journeys from Newquay Bus Station or the from the Great Western Hotel, opposite Newquay Railway Station to Edgcumbe Avenue at the entrance to the zoo. Follow Good Journey’s directions.
- Show your bus or land train tickets when you arrive to get discount the walk-up entrance price (or get cheaper entry by booking in advance). You get to avoid the seasonal parking charges too!
- See the penguins being fed, meet the meerkats and macaques, or learn about the lions. Café Lemur is the place to feed yourselves, offering Cornish pasties or ice creams, soups, salads and more.
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3. Luxulyan and more by train
Great Western Railway’s pretty twenty-mile branch line, which runs between south-coast Par and Newquay station across cotton-grassed Goss Moor, is one of Cornwall’s great scenic rail journeys. This railway is known as the Atlantic Coast Line.
- Among the many interesting things to see along the way, is the Luxulyan Valley, a former mining area that has now become a magical nature reserve. You can get there easily from Luxulyan station.
- Some summer trains don’t stop at Luxulyan so check in advance and make sure to tell the guard you want to get off the train at Luxulyan village.
- The King’s Arms pub is just a few steps from the station. The local church is worth a look too – go back over the bridge and up the hill. Dedicated to Saints Julitta and Cyriacus, it may have been founded by Welsh missionary monks in the sixth century.
- This is one of twelve churches along a 30-mile route called the Saints Way, which runs between Padstow and Fowey.
- You’ll see the Saints Way arrows heading towards the Luxulyan Valley (see map below). Wander a lovely mile through mossy oaks and fern-fringed waterways. In spring, foxgloves and bluebells sprout beside old tramlines and forgotten cascades. In autumn, the beech woods around the monumental Treffrey viaduct turn copper and gold.
- Towering thirty metres over the wooded path, this huge granite viaduct, set in a UNESCO-listed valley, is even more impressive close-up. You can walk back along the road or return the way you came. Either way makes a pleasant couple of miles’ walk.
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4. Bedruthan Steps by bus
These huge mussel-cloaked stacks of granite punctuate the distinctive view from the café at Carnewas. Legend has it that the Cornish giant Bedruthan used the rocks as stepping stones. Once a popular Victorian beauty spot, the cliffs are now managed by the National Trust.
- The open-topped Atlantic Coaster bus, leaving daily and regularly (summer only) from Newquay’s bus station or Great Western Hotel, stops at Carnewas. Climb down the steep adventurous path to the beautiful beach. Or simply admire the view from the tea room at the top. (Bus 56 runs in winter).
- On the bus trip from Newquay, the road climbs, through hedges of honeysuckle and banks topped with frondy tamarisk, to the cliffs above Watergate Bay. While cars wind blindly through the sunken Cornish lanes, top-deck vistas take in idyllic sandy coves like Harlyn Bay or inland villages like wisteria-decked St Mawgan.
- At the far end of the hour-long bus ride, you reach popular Padstow, with its harbour-side shops and cafes. From here, you can catch the ferry over to Rock across the lovely Camel Estuary, a frequent service.
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Buses, bikes and places to stay
Here’s a bit more practical info if you’re planning a staycation in Newquay.
- GWR’s Cornwall ranger ticket is valid for unlimited train travel across the whole county.
- Dayrider tickets, valid on all buses either within the town or across Cornwall.
- If the bus journeys are local and on the same day that you arrive or leave by train, you can get a PlusBus ticket for unlimited bus rides around the Newquay area.
- You can hire bikes from Coastal Trail Cycle Hire.
- There are lots of places to stay in Newquay. The Great Western Hotel is right by the train station and bus stop. AirBnB has suggestions and there are dozens of regular B&Bs too.
- Along the Atlantic Coaster bus route towards Padstow, there are some fancier choices like the new Pig Hotel, that opened in 2020 on a tree-lined lane above Harlyn village. Or check out the Bedruthan Hotel and Spa at Mawgan Porth, one minute away from Gwel-an-mor bus stop. It’s a stylish, art-filled resort with a pool and hot tubs.
